جوايابيرا

(تم التحويل من Guayabera)
Two guayaberas seen from the back, showing the alforza pleats and the Western-style yoke

The guayabera ( /ɡwaɪ.əˈbɛrə/), also known as camisa de Yucatán (Yucatán shirt), is a men's summer shirt, worn outside the trousers, distinguished by two columns of closely sewn pleats running the length of the front and back of the shirt. Typically made of linen, silk, or cotton, and appropriate for hot and/or humid weather, guayaberas are popular in Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean (especially Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Jamaica, and Puerto Rico), South America, Southeast Asia, the south of Spain, and Portugal.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Design

Closeup of a pocket on a guayabera, showing the button and aligned alforzas

The design of a typical guayabera is distinguished by several details:

  • Either two or four patch pockets and two vertical rows of alforzas (fine, tiny pleats, usually 10, sewn closely together) run down the front and three down the back of the shirt. The pockets are detailed with alforzas that are identical to, and aligned with, the alforzas on the body of the shirt.[1]
  • Long or short sleeves, the more common being the short-sleeved version, having a cuffed sleeve with a single decorative button.
  • Some shirt designs include slits on either side, and these include two or three buttons. The bottom has a straight hem and is never tucked into the trousers.[2]
  • The top of each pocket is usually adorned with a matching shirt button, as are the bottoms of the alforza pleats. Vertical rows of adjusting buttons are often used at the bottom hem. While most versions of the design have no placket covering the buttons, a few newer designs do.

Though traditionally worn in white and pastels, guayaberas are now available in many solid colors. Black guayaberas, embroidered with colorful flowers and with French cuffs, have for many decades been extremely popular in Mexico and are considered formalwear in some situations.[3]

Mexican guayaberas often use complicated embroidery as a supplement to the traditional alforzas. This style originated in Mérida, Mexico.[2]


History

Cuban man wearing a guayabera c. 1956

The exact origin of the garment is unknown, although some sources attribute the shirt to the people of the Philippines who introduced the design to Mexico. Specifically, the design is believed to be from the lace-like white Philippine barong Tagalog, which has documented origins in the Philippines prior to the arrival of the Spanish.[4] It made its way to Cuba through Mexico via the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade (AD 1565 to 1815).[5]

Men wearing white filipina shirts in the traditional jarana Yucateca dance of Yucatán, Mexico

Some scholars dispute the Philippine origin based on perceived design differences. The barong traditionally does not have pockets and has an intricate U-shaped embroidery around the chest (the pechera) which is mostly absent in Cuban guayaberas.[6] Guayaberas are also made from linen or cotton, and not the expensive piña or abacá sheer fabrics used in formal barong (although informal barong worn by the lower classes in the Philippines use common opaque fabrics like linen).[7][8]

However, guayaberas in Mexico also have chest designs like pleats and embroidery similar to the barong (and in contrast to Cuban guayaberas); they can range from having no pockets to having one, two, or four. This is the reason why Mexicans also claim that it originated from either the state of Veracruz or the Yucatán Peninsula.[5] In Mexico, the same basic style is also known as the "camisa de Yucatán" (Yucatán shirt)[9] or "wedding shirt".[2]

Regardless, a clearer line of evidence is that guayaberas are actually also referred to as "filipinas" in Yucatán, Mexico, with the former regarded as a variant of the latter. The only difference between the two is the type of collar used. Filipinas have a collar similar to the Nehru or mandarin-style (a style known as the baro cerrada in the 19th-century Philippines), while guayaberas have a more typical spread collar. Both filipinas and the derivative guayaberas were the traditional everyday men's shirts in Yucatán since the mid-19th century, before they were replaced by western shirts in the early 20th century. The white filipina shirt is still regarded as the traditional formal dress for men in Yucatán, along with the terno for women (cf. traje de Mestiza of the Philippines). In particular, white filipinas are the traditional shirts worn for the jarana Yucateca dance, paired with white trousers. This suggests an origin from the Philippines that entered Mexico early during the colonial period through Yucatán then to Cuba, where it was later adapted to local fashion and materials.[10][11][12][13][7][14]

Cubans also claim the guayabera originated from Cuba. Cuban literature refers to the shirt from 1893,[15] and documentary evidence mentions the shirt in Cuba as early as 1880.[2] The Cuban origin story tells of a poor countryside seamstress sewing large patch-pockets onto her husband's shirts for carrying guava (guayabas) from the field.[5][2] In another version of the story, in 1709 Spanish immigrants from Granada, José Pérez Rodríguez and his wife Encarnación Núñez García arrived in Sancti Spiritus, located along the Yayabo River. José asked his wife to make him a shirt with long sleeves and four large pockets to store his cigars and belongings while he worked. Because it was easy to make, as well as being useful, it soon became a popular garment in that region. Another belief is that the name guayabera is said to have originated from the word yayabero, the nickname for those who lived near the Yayabo River in Cuba.[5][16][17]

Wear and use

Former United States Secretary of State John Kerry and former Colombian President Juan Manuel Santos wear guayaberas while discussing an upcoming peace treaty.

The guayabera is often worn in formal contexts, such as offices and weddings. In Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Mexico, and Puerto Rico, guayaberas are part of the traditional wear for men and may be considered formalwear.[18][16] In 2010, Cuba reinstated the guayabera as the "official formal dress garment".[19]

Political symbolism

Taiwanese President Tsai in guayabera gifted by Panama's first lady

Guayaberas have been worn extensively by a number of Latin American political leaders, including Andrés Manuel López Obrador, Cesar Chavez, Carlos Prío Socarrás, and Fidel Castro.[17] This is often interpreted as a sign of the wearer's affiliation with populist political positions.[18] Michael Manley, populist Jamaican prime minister, specifically advocated for the guayabera as an anti-colonialist mode of dress,[20] and conversely the shirt was later banned in Parliament by the conservative Jamaica Labour Party.[21] Similarly, Mexican left-wing populist Luis Echeverría advocated for its use in Mexico in part to symbolize rejection of European and American-style business suits.[9][2]

U.S. presidents, including Ronald Reagan, George H. W. Bush, and Barack Obama, have worn the shirts as a sign of solidarity when visiting the Cuban community in Miami[22] and when attending Latin American summits.[17] Visiting politicians are sometimes given the shirts by Cuban American or Latin American political leaders.[23][24]

Similar shirts and alternative names

A variety of similar, lightweight dress shirts exists in other tropical countries. These include:

  • In America: the Western shirts with pointed yokes and elaborate embroidery were directly copied from the guayaberas of 19th century Mexican vaqueros.[25][26]
  • In Guyana: a similar or identical shirt is called a "shirt-jac".[27][28]
  • In Jamaica: the guayabera is called a "bush jacket".[20]
  • In the Dominican Republic: guayaberas are referred to as "chacabana".[29][30]
  • In the Philippines: the barong Tagalog shirt has some features which are similar to the guayabera: it is long-sleeved, light, traditionally white, and worn without being tucked in. However, the most traditional styles are decorated with U-shaped embroidery (called the pechera), rather than the guayabera's straight pleats, and lack pockets.[31] It is also traditionally made of hand-woven, fine, translucent piña or jusi fiber, rather than linen.[4]
  • In Trinidad and Tobago, physicians often wear them because of their practicality; one pocket for pens, one for a prescription pad, another for a stethoscope, etc.

See also

References

  1. ^ Tartakoff, Joseph (13 سبتمبر 2006). "The guayabera: Traditional tropical shirt finds new customers online". Mas Magazine. Archived from the original on 10 سبتمبر 2008.
  2. ^ أ ب ت ث ج ح "The Guayabera: A Shirt's Story". HistoryMiami. Archived from the original on 18 يوليو 2016. Retrieved 10 أبريل 2015.
  3. ^ "Guayaberas: Fashion Statement for Men". PuertoRico.com. Archived from the original on 6 مايو 2021. Retrieved 29 أبريل 2009.
  4. ^ أ ب Lynch, Annette; Strauss, Mitchell D. (30 أكتوبر 2014). Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia (in الإنجليزية). Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN 9780759121508.
  5. ^ أ ب ت ث Armario, Christine (30 يونيو 2004). "Guayabera's Origin Remains a Puzzle". Miami Herald. Retrieved 10 أبريل 2015.
  6. ^ Martinez, David C. (2004). A country of our own: partitioning the Philippines (in الإنجليزية). Bisayâ Books. pp. 244–245. ISBN 9780976061304.
  7. ^ أ ب Rendón, Manuel Jesús Pinkus (2005). De la herencia a la enajenación: danzas y bailes "tradicionales" de Yucatán. UNAM. p. 55. ISBN 9789703223183.
  8. ^ Coo, Stéphanie Marie R. (2014). Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) (PhD thesis). Université Nice Sophia Antipolis.
  9. ^ أ ب Kiddle, Amelia Marie; Munoz, Maria Leonor Olin (2010). Populism in Twentieth Century Mexico: The Presidencies of Lazaro Cardenas and Luis Echeverria (in الإنجليزية). University of Arizona Press. p. 198. ISBN 9780816529186.
  10. ^ "¿Cómo se vestían los yucatecos a principios del siglo XX?". Diario de Yucatan. 20 أغسطس 2018. Archived from the original on 9 مارس 2021. Retrieved 27 يناير 2019.
  11. ^ Arellano, Gustavo (2007). Ask a Mexican. Simon and Schuster. p. 205. ISBN 9781416562061.
  12. ^ Grimsrud, John M. (2013). Yucatán's Magic–Mérida Side Trips: Treasures of Mayab. Lulu Press. ISBN 9781105124556.[dead link]
  13. ^ Vargas-Cetina, Gabriela (2017). Beautiful Politics of Music: Trova in Yucatán, Mexico. University of Alabama Press. p. 32. ISBN 9780817319625.
  14. ^ Rodriguez, Yazmin (26 سبتمبر 2017). "Realizan: "Paseo de las Animas" en Yucatan". Retrieved 27 يناير 2019.
  15. ^ "Guayabera, The Beloved National Garment". CubaPLUS Magazine (in الإنجليزية). Archived from the original on 21 أبريل 2019. Retrieved 7 نوفمبر 2017.
  16. ^ أ ب Gray, Kevin (23 مايو 2003). "Cuban Guayaberas Make Mark Abroad". Havana Journal. Archived from the original on 24 يوليو 2011. Retrieved 13 يونيو 2008.
  17. ^ أ ب ت "Cuba y su guayabera, presentes en Cumbre de las Américas" [Cuba and its guayabera, present at the Summit of the Americas] (in الإسبانية الأوروبية). Escambray. 10 أبريل 2012. Retrieved 16 يناير 2017.
  18. ^ أ ب Root, Regina A. (4 يونيو 2005). Latin American Fashion Reader (in الإنجليزية). Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 9781859738931. Retrieved 10 أبريل 2015.
  19. ^ "Guayabera shirt now official Cuban formal dress code". BBC News. 7 أكتوبر 2010. Retrieved 9 أبريل 2012.
  20. ^ أ ب Ulysse, Gina A. (2007). Downtown Ladies: Informal Commercial Importers, a Haitian Anthropologist and Self-Making in Jamaica (in الإنجليزية). University of Chicago Press. p. 77. ISBN 9780226841212.
  21. ^ Waters, Anita M. (8 سبتمبر 2017). Race, Class, and Political Symbols: Rastafari and Reggae in Jamaican Politics (in الإنجليزية). Routledge. p. 194. ISBN 9781351495066.
  22. ^ "Best Place to Buy a Shirt and Chat with a Legend (2002): La Casa de las Guayaberas". Miami New Times. Retrieved 10 أبريل 2015.
  23. ^ "After debate, Trump visits with the Hispanics who seem to like him most". Miami Herald. 27 سبتمبر 2016. Retrieved 27 سبتمبر 2016.
  24. ^ "President Tsai attends panama canal cermony [[[كذا|ك‍]]]/ 巴拿馬運河竣工 蔡出席見證拚外交 - PTS Good Morning Taiwan". 公視新聞網 (in Chinese (Taiwan)). 28 يونيو 2016. Retrieved 6 نوفمبر 2017. {{cite news}}: URL–wikilink conflict (help)
  25. ^ "Dropping Knowledge: The Western Shirt". GQ. 28 نوفمبر 2012.
  26. ^ "The Cowboys", part of Time and Life: The Old West (1973)
  27. ^ "Summit". Stabroek News (in الإنجليزية الأمريكية). 28 فبراير 2010. Retrieved 7 نوفمبر 2017.
  28. ^ Allsopp, Richard; Allsopp, Jeannette (2003). Dictionary of Caribbean English Usage (in الإنجليزية). University of the West Indies Press. ISBN 9789766401450.
  29. ^ Deive, Carlos Esteban (2002). Diccionario de dominicanismos (in الإسبانية). Editora Manati'. p. 104. ISBN 9789993439073.
  30. ^ Moran, Patrick R. (2001). Teaching Culture: Perspectives in Practice (in الإنجليزية). Heinle & Heinle. p. 104. ISBN 9780838466766.
  31. ^ Hila, Ma Corazon A.; Reyes, Mitzi Marie Aguilar; Feleo, Anita B. (2008). Garment of honor, garment of identity (in الإنجليزية). EN Barong Filipino. pp. 63–69.

External links

تمّ الاسترجاع من "https://www.marefa.org/w/index.php?title=جوايابيرا&oldid=4003939"